June 2009

Elvira Hancock

by Amber on June 30, 2009 in Notebook

She doesn’t smile much (romantically entwined with Tony Montana, would you?) but Elvira is a fox. An ice-queen with perfect hair, a couple of dirty habits and an awesome wardrobe.

Scarface

Scarface

Elvira

Scarface

Get the look with an Alexander Wang slim fit dress or a slinky baby doll nightgown from your local vintage store. Beauty wise, you need a banging fringe,  thickly lacquered eyelashes and perfect french polished nails. Accessorize with over sized glasses with a gradient tint and waterfalls of diamonds. Throw bored looks everywhere, powder your nose.

I love Scarface. Definitely in my top 10 films.

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GIRLS ON FILM: STYLE BRANDS & VIDEO

by Amber on June 29, 2009 in Notebook

Using video to showcase fashion and related design work is a burgeoning trend. These are not so much “viral” videos, rather films (and motion graphics) that build presence, reflect a brand’s personality and champion offerings in a fresh way. As the Business of Fashion says, it is about “creating reverberations amongst the press and consumers”.

I feel like we’ve all seen the standard interpretations like Gareth Pugh’s film that was launched in tandem with his AW09 collection. So I’ve put together a few alternative examples of ways brands work with motion:

HAIR, THERE AND BACK AGAIN

[New Zealand hair salon] Stephen Marr “teamed up with Auckland’s top fashion design talent to present Belle du Jour, a collection of six drop-dead looks for the ball season.”

The result is a time stopping to-and-fro that reminds me of Toshiba’s Time Sculpture advertisement.

MOVING MAGAZINES

Russh magazine‘s latest issue – as seen on a ‘vidflip’:

I like this way of creating anticipation and desire for the physical paper product, rather than just slapping it up as a 2D flippable flash file. A few thousand people have viewed it so far, not too bad… and rather tempting to buy.

REALITY RETAIL

UK retailers ASOS lets you view clothes using a quick ‘catwalk’ video for each garment.

ASOS using video to showcase garments

Thank god – you can finally see that cute jumpsuit has a saggy ass (a harem onesie, really?)… Video – saving women the world over horrified disappointment! This feature definitely builds trust.

SHOW STOPPING ANIMATION

When it comes to fashion animation, who can forget Heal Fashion Lab’s quirky look book. Experience the full out by going to their collections page and popping your headphones on.

lobster-claws

I have so much love for that lobster dress and the pinching limbs I think my heart might burst. Local Auckland brand Skylark Boutique also uses animated gifs on their splash page – adding movement and a bit of intrigue.

THE TRAILER FOR THE FILM OF YOUR LIFE

Not quite a fashion brand – it’s a blog! But there’s a promo video! I found this tidy little number used to promote IMBOYCRAZY.COM incredibly clever.

Boy Crazy Promo from alexi wasser on Vimeo.

Groundbreaking. How many other blogs out there have a timeless video calling card? (As an aside, it’s a fabulous site well worthy of some serious browsing. Totally stuffed with smart, realistic advice from girl who really does know where you’re coming from.)

VIDEO KILLS

I see many extensions of video – Etsy sellers promoting themselves with crafty little clips, more bloggers producing timeless promo clips, make up artists peddling their ways through new expressions (the We Have Band video comes to mind – it was made by an ad agency, was there a chance for endorsement?).

Yep, if you approach them from a slightly different angle, videos are incredibly effective tools for building brands. They can be used to:

  1. Inform – Answer questions like ASOS  does – ‘how does this garment sit?’ etc. Keep asking, what what do consumers really want to know?
  2. Inspire – create fantasies, test the limits of your product or consumer’s imagination. Give me a taste of the benefit.
  3. Engage – with a video you become multidimensional. Why not give your brand a soundtrack, an aural hook that people will associate with you forever?

Shopflick TV’s Patrick Yee sums it up well:

Video is an extremely powerful tool in building the designer’s brand, providing backstory and context, as well as demonstrating how pieces fall, flow and move. Video provides deeper context and heightens detail in a way that images alone cannot.

Finally, video is extremely accessible. With faster broadband connections and higher quality video equipment available to all, why not test a few ideas out? The sky is the limit!

GREY LYNN
136 Great North Road,
GREY LYNN
ph. 09 360 4511
fax. 09 360 4515
email

NORTH SHORE
195C WAIRAU Road,
North Shore
ph. 09 442 2245
fax. 09 442 2246
email

MANUKAU
605C Great South Road,
Manukau
ph. 09 262 3505
fax. 09 262 3055
email

HENDERSON
96A Railside Avenue (cnr View),
Henderson
ph. 09 837 7889
fax. 09 837 7886
email

TAURANGA

TAURANGA
4 Brook Street, Fraser Cove
Tauranga
ph. 07 577 6059
fax. 07 577 6059
email

CHRISTCHURCH

Christchurch
266 Cashel Street,
Christchurch
ph. 03 377 7717
email

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MUSIC FOR A MONDAY

by Amber on June 29, 2009 in Notebook

So this is freedom huh? Today is the first day of my new life – I woke up and didn’t go to work, which feels pretty amazing. Despite that I am working hard – there’s a lot to do!

Of course any new step in the journey of life needs an appropriate soundtrack; so I’m kicking everything off by listening to Sonic Youth’s Goo with the cat. Favourite songs? Mote and Kool Thing featuring Chuck D. from Public Enemy.

Sonic Youth - Goo

Apart from being a great mash of alt rock noise, it has (in my opinion) some of the best album art of all time; designed by punkrocker-cum-artist Raymond Pettibon. Whirlwind, heat and flash – Goo still sounds fresh, 19 years later.

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Tineke van der Walle is a 24-year-old photographer from Auckland, New Zealand. From photo essays of a cheeky ‘Boobs on Bikes’ parade or a stirring hikoi (protest march), to simply her local neighbourhood, Tineke’s interpretations are always insightful and capture an energy most people simply register then walk away from.

Tineke van der Walle

I’ve known the talented (and super funny) Teen for a few years and am a huge fan of her photography! I talked to Tineke about her background, her approach and delved into the background of some of her favourite shots.

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CFS: How and when did you first get into photography? Is it something you’ve always been interested in?

TVDW: It’s in my history. Although no van der Walle has ever gone pro, my whole family has always had a real passion for it. My grandparents were amateur photographers and that interest was passed onto my dad and then to my sister and me as well. We have thousands, no – probably millions, of pictures of us all growing up. My dad says we were “the most photographed kids in the world”.

My father has owned a photographic store for over 20 years now so that was a real driving force. I was printing and processing film from the age of 14 and I love that I have had that experience with a lab. You also get to look at thousands and thousands of other people’s memories and private moments, it’s quite voyeuristic in a way!

I also had to take peoples passport photos and recall doing an early ‘series’ with them. It basically involved keeping the 2 prints that would otherwise go in the bin. I think I collected about 50, seeing all the different people and faces that had come in for one simple photograph was interesting to me. So yes, it’s something that is ingrained into me and working in my dad’s shop really brought it out.

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CFS: What do you look for when you’re out shooting?

TVDW: I think I look for what a lot of people’s minds do naturally. In a kind of subconscious way I’m very aware of patterns, shapes, linear forms, structures and the use of space… Things like that.

"Spitalfields Markets, London" - May 2008, Whitechapel.

On a more personal level I enjoy documenting people, animals, capturing moments of interaction and street photography. I can get inspired in a variety of environments. Usually when I’m traveling somewhere new or experiencing something I haven’t before. Something as simple as photographing where they grow hothouse tomatoes, to the streets of Rome!

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CFS: What equipment do you use to make your pictures?

TVDW: Different bits and bobs over the years. I got my first DSLR just last year, a Pentax IST DS with a basic 18-55mm lens. If not that, then whenever I can I yoink my work’s camera which is a Nikon D70s and use its awesome wide angle. But to be honest I’m really not a techy geary type of person. I don’t necessarily pine over expensive equipment or brands, as I’m not really all that technical anyway.

My sister and I joke about it. She works for Canon in London and has such a wealth of knowledge of camera gear but can’t shoot for shit. I can see what would make a good photo and can produce it but know bugger all about gear. If only we could combine our skills!

Apart from digital stuff I’ve used all sorts of film SLR’s. Olympus’s, Nikon’s, and Canon’s… I think I remember using a Seagull in college? I have also experimented in box cameras and rangefinder cameras etc.

"Mr. Whippy" - August 2008

Luckily for me, my dad might make an exciting deal at his shop and will loan me an old Leica to use for the weekend just to try it out. When I visit his shop it’s sometimes like going shopping, but it’s all on loan. I borrow a camera for a week and then take it back and get the film processed; I constantly use something different, which I really enjoy.

I love film; I love the mystery of it, love not knowing what the image is going to be like.

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CFS: Out of all your fascinating photographs, can you choose some of your favourite images and tell me about them?

TVDW: I’ve narrowed it down to my CURRENT faves…

I have a thing about reflections. I have a few photos that are similar to this one on my computer right now. I think I’m going through a phase of looking into puddles. I really love how it skews the perception of the viewer and I relish the confusion it causes!

"Campbell Kindergarten in Winter"

"Campbell Kindergarten in Winter" - Victoria Park

I enjoy that it challenges the mind and muddles it for a second. We’re not used to seeing buildings upside down! I also love the colours and the somewhat gradual fade from the gravel, into what looks like a muddy puddle, into the image of the building on the top right.

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"Under The Bridge"

“Under The Bridge” – June 2009, North Shore

TVDW: Another photograph that tickles my fancy for perception. This was shot underneath Auckland’s harbour bridge. I’m sure it’s a regular spot for photographers as I’ve already met two people that have shot in this area as well! But I don’t care; I love the linear of the columns and the effect of black fading to white.

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TVDW: Something different here. I did a series on Dominion Rd while I was attending a photography course. I chose the road as its somewhere I’ve always been attracted to, lived close to and it contains a lot of Auckland history. I photographed the people, places and buildings of the road that I felt portrayed the essence of the area.

I popped into the St Alban’s church and found these ladies busy spring-cleaning. They asked me if I was a worker bee there to help out for the day. They let me take some photos of them and the church and I just thought this one was just so kiwi and cute.

tineke_church

"Worker Bees, St Alban's Church" - Oct 2008, Dominion Rd.

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TVDW: The epitome of a kiwi farm shed – I took this while on an Easter holiday in the Waikato. Friends and I stayed at a bach that was located on an old sheep farm. The colour version of this is also interesting – it really displays what I first photographed it for which was a perfect gradual line down the middle of the can. The can had been there for so long the colour had faded on the right hand side and the left was as vivid as when it was first placed there.

"Rustproof" Easter 2009 - Waikato Region.

"Rustproof" Easter 2009 - Waikato Region.

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CFS: In terms of theme, what directions are you pursuing next?

Currently I’m very excited about documenting rural New Zealand. There’s something about it that is striking and grungy. I get a real kick out of taking interesting photos of my country, because to be honest, I’m just so damn proud of it. For me, this photograph ["Rustproof", above] sums all that up in one can.

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For more of her work visit www.tineke.co.nz. Thanks Tineke!

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VIEWFNDER: SYNESTHESIA

by Amber on June 26, 2009 in Notebook

A simply magical short film reflecting the state of synesthesia: an alternate sense impression through the stimulation of another sense or part of the body.

[Via the lovely Tokyohanna]

It reminds me of a journal entry I wrote last year:

Lovely knowledge – Sep. 1st, 2008
Jerm was teaching me how to tell a first edition record by the smell… they smell like libraries. New presses smell like chemicals.
So we spent a good 5 minutes sniffing all the different records in his room.

You might appreciate this tip if you’re ever out vinyl hunting!

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CFS-ACELIFT: DESIGN PROGRESS

by Amber on June 24, 2009 in Design

Yay! Progress feels awesome. Emma and and I have finally gotten around to making some decisions on a colour palette. The new CFS colours are: purple, orange, fuschia, green, limoncello and blue!

cfs-colours

These are the pastels we talked about earlier – fresh summery colours. We’re retaining the orange I’ve used in every CFS ‘design’ so far.

This is where the word mark and the signature triangle pattern is at now:

CFS new wordmark

header cfs

The pattern started off as very clean, but over time has become quite distressed – reminding me of screen-printed canvas.

As you can see, we’re developing a series of icons to go on the regular content – so far we have a ‘Photographic Evidence’, a ‘CFS Loves’ and one for all the travels I will be making (hah!), – that’s the icon with the wee sailboat. I’m still trying to come up with a few other symbols – for the occasional Dress Codes and guest contributors – any ideas?

SITE LAYOUT

This is the structure we’re currently playing around with. There are so many questions to answer! What are the essential elements of a blog, how do you navigate, width of sidebars… wait, how many sidebars?

laying-up-the-new-site
Which brings us to the first (very messy) draft:

CFS

Everything is still being tweaked – from the typography to headers and footers; but thanks to Em’s hard work, something wonderful is starting to take shape….

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Photographic Evidence

stroll

under

bridge
lines

sky

Shadows and lines. It’s now the winter and time for perfect, clear days which make me wish-wish-wish I had enough money to go skiing. Alas, all spare money is probably going into replacing my camera (and my fixie lens), as some dreadful creature of the night stole it while I was out at a bar.

In the meantime, Photographic Evidence is going on hiatus… unless it turns into Evidence of a Scribble-Pants, but I doubt it! Anyway, it’s a pity, but in the scheme of things, not so bad. I am going to focus on being happy for the small things; like cloudless skies, crispily energising mornings and finding a woollen scarf that doens’t itch!

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CH-CH-CH-CHANGES

by Amber on June 22, 2009 in Notebook

This is my last week at designworks. For something that started out as a stop gap, it’s rocked my life in a million ways I never could have imagined. I will miss working in the big beautiful studio, surrounded by some of the finest designers in the country. I’ll miss having raging arguments about where the city’s best ramen is served, why Muji is the ULTIMATE brand, the occasional kerning competition and all that karaoke.

aa

A little bit of back story:

I has just finished my first year of university in Auckland, doing a degree in Film & Performing Arts. It was a challenging year of learning, surrounded by a group of amazing people from all walks of life. Unfortunately, I was 17 and my walk in life, thus far, had been to the mall and back. It was bizarre, I wasn’t old enough get into pubs, let alone reflect the full spectrum of life in scripts and performance. So I decided to take a break, get some life experience and see how I felt after a year.

I started a job at designworks as a studio assistant… meaning taking photos, sticking things together (hi, award boards) and making tea!

design-assistant

Yup, the cliche. I looked like this even down to the regrowth.

5 and a half years later… Thanks to some serious weaseling, I’m a full fledged brand geek, research whizz and the girl who whips your copy into either an alcoholic frenzy or a soothing bath time treat. Whatever you like, babycakes!

I’ve grown more than I could have imagined, travelled around the world with the proceeds and made some BFFs for life. Really, DW is my family and I love them very much. However, as with all families, the little ones grow up and must move on!

So what next? I’m not entirely certain, but it’s totally okay not to know. The best things in my life have come about because I’ve made room for them and now the time feels right to make a turn into uncharted territories. I’m keeping an open mind as to future directions, but in the meantime I will be doing some freelance writing/trend forecasting, personal scribbling and attempting some cake baking… without getting flour on my pyjamas. If you’ve got any ideas, let’s have a chat!

Anyway, thanks for sticking out this long, overly personal interlude – I really wanted to share this with you. Code For Something has rapidly become a big part of my life, so I’m excited to give it even more attention. Onwards and upwards!

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THE MEANING OF FURBELOW

by Amber on June 21, 2009 in Notebook

furbelow, n.

1. A piece of stuff pleated and puckered on a gown or petticoat; a flounce; the pleated border of a petticoat or gown. Now often in pl. as a contemptuous term for showy ornaments or trimming, esp. in a lady’s dress.

Furbelow

1862 M. E. BRADDON Lady Audley xxxiii. 249 My lady smiled as she looked at the festoons and furbelows which met her eye upon every side.

(Such a pretty word, I like it. But I am rather innocent – have just been told by hardened cynics to expect a traffic spike from filthy google searchers. Oof!)

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VIEWFINDER: DIZZEE RASCAL – BONKERS

by Amber on June 19, 2009 in Notebook

Ohhh yeah, happy Friday! It’s finally here, and I reckon the perfect song to rev you up for the festivities ahead is Bonkers, by the one and only Dizzee Rascal. It’s a rollicking song, with a deadly bass line – all backed up by great visuals. He’s rather cute (I confess to a mini-crush!) and the video’s 3D/fish eye effect is awesome, achieved through the use of LadyBug technology:

“LadyBug is a six camera lens system capturing a 360-degree view – similar technology is used for Google Street View. With the addition of Apple’s Shake the linear output was converted into a ‘planet’ view allowing for the effect in the video…” Thanks Digital Urban!

Have a good one kids!

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CFS Loves 27

by Amber on June 18, 2009 in Notebook

CFS Loves

Tour Eiffel, study 1

  • Damien Vassart is a French photographer, based in Paris. I love every single shot I’ve seen so far – moody long exposures of hard-edged architectural features.
  • I shop, therefore I am? Disputable. Check out this interview with Neil Boorman, a man who burnt all of his branded possessions. He is now living brand free. (This totally reminds me of one of my favourite books – William Gibson’s Pattern Recognition.)
  • Cool retail design at Jeanette‘s – look at the pics! I love the mishmash of door frames to get into this store (guarded while closed with a roller door).
  • Toby Morris is a Kiwi illustrator/comic artist on the loose in Amsterdam. Xtotl is a travel diary of sorts – insightful and funny!

alice-in-wonderland-annie-leibovitz

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Christopher Kane – Yay Or Nay?

by Amber on June 16, 2009 in Notebook

Christopher Kane’s Resort 2010 collection is no doubt more interesting than it would have been in florals*. He’s taken inspiration from digitally printed fabric with mushroom cloud images, sourced from war photographic archives, and whipped them into a few frock. All very nice and ooh-ahh, until you think what this actual subject matter is. As Patty Huntington points out, 70,000+ people died instantly in Nagasaki. Not to mention the aftermath and those who weren’t blessed with a quick demise.

I believe fashion is about expressing an idea through garments, but I think I’ve completely missed Kane’s point here. Fashion will be the death of us all?

christopher-kane-mushroom-cloud

View the entire collection on Style.com, have a look at the destruction of Nagasaki, and let me know what you think… Has the quest for “interesting” visuals gone too far? Is it okay to wear a “Shrapnel” organza dress?

*Blackbook has suggested an alternative that still kicks the ass of florals; Shabd‘s tie-dye interpretations of space & time – on a collection of trippy leggings and bodysuits.

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MEET THE LEICA NOCTILUX

by Amber on June 15, 2009 in Art & Photography

leica-noctilux

My friend Jerm is turning into a camera geek (hurrah). We were chatting the other day when told me about the mother of all lenses – the Leica Noctilux-M 50 mm f/0.95 ASPH.  That’s one hell of an f-stop – “when used in available light photography, the lens exceeds the perception of the human eye”.  You won’t fall victim to hand-held shakes… even when shooting by only the light of a single candle! The previous version of the Noctilux was a similarly impressive f/1.0.

Sigh. While I love my thrifty-fity  (aka the Canon 50mm f/1.8), the Noctilux lenses have turned my head – alas, the f/0.95 sells for around US$11,000! While I save up, let’s enjoy the images of the few lucky enough to have had a go on one of Leica’s mean pieces of glassy perfection:

Photo by Cristian -Kit- Paul

Photo by Bill Liao

Photo by _rin_

Jealous much? Jerm, me and us all!

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Always looking at the lights and always going out. Highlights of the week: a yummy dinner at Chow with my parents, meeting a friend for hot chocolate in front of a roaring fire, checking out bars in a neighbourhood I don’t usually frequent (Kingsland), and a Friday night excursion to my favourite restaurant – Tanuki’s Cave. It’s nice to go somewhere where you know everybody, the tunes are always sweet and the food never fails to AMAZE.

nombe

nombe

ruby

chow

chow

Uh yeah, too much eating and drinking! I will have to restrain myself this week. Although I doubt I will – Tanuki is always calling my name.

Tell me, what’s the name of your local haunt? Why do you love it?

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